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There were parts of the ceiling in the onsen where the paint was peeling off. Unfortunately after 14 busy months, there were some signs of wear and tear around the facility. The look is not uncommon in contemporary Bangkok, but it’s taken to the extreme on the second floor which felt somewhat institutionalised rather than Zen-like. It’s busy, functional and clearly very popular.Īs soon as you enter Yunomori, the distinct Japanese design – simple, minimalist clean lines – suggests guests are in for a treat. What I liked most about Yunomori is that it’s not a showcase facility where you might be afraid to make a mess. When I was there, there was an even split between the sets, with a smattering of other Caucasians. On the other hand, it attracts Thai nationals who want to try something different.
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It’s a necessity to the Japanese residing in Bangkok who see the onsen as an essential part of daily life: a place to hangout and socialise. The offering and price point appeals to two types of consumers. The entrance fee to the onsen is THB450 (US$14, €10, £8.30), while a 60-minute Thai massage starts at THB350 (US$10.60, €7.70, £6.50) – a lower price indicative of a saturated market where massage is available on every street corner in one guise or another for as little as THB250 (US$7.60, €5.60, £4.60). Yunomori is a mid-range, affordable facility. Other facilities on-site include Gastronom – a bistro/bakery café which serves light snacks, deserts (think macaroons) and coffee and Dontaku – a Japanese restaurant offering a gamut of hearty, casual Japanese cuisine from sushi and saké to bento boxes.
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There’s also the separately operated Binomori Beauty Clinic where semi-invasive anti-ageing procedures are performed alongside more simple hands-on facials. The first floor is dedicated to a more local offering – it has 15 simple Thai massage rooms, with tatami floor mattresses, and oil massage rooms with treatment tables. All water has been imported from Ranong hot springs in southern Thailand and is filtered on-site.
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The circuit starts with a soda bath which uses a specific Mitsubishi carbonator to infuse the water with carbon dioxide which, Yunomori claims, helps with micro-circulation and general wellbeing. The ground floor of Yunomori features the separate male and female onsen comprising an impressive array of seven different bathing and thermal experiences. The two-storey building sits off Rama IV road in A-Square, a complex of boutique shops and restaurants which is easily accessed by train, the underground or by driving. Despite potential challenges, Mekaroonkamol invested a reported THB70m (US$2.1m, €1.5m, £1.3m) to create Yunomori Onsen & Spa which opened in September 2012. But it could also be risky: while stripping naked for communal bathing (albeit only with people of the same gender) might not be unusual to the Japanese, it would be alien Thai people who are naturally conservative. It made sense to Thai entrepreneur Smith Mekaroonkamol that an onsen – a traditional Japanese bathing facility with sequences of hot springs/pools – would work well there. This busy part of Thailand’s capital is home to a large number of Japanese expats and Oriental establishments catering to their tastes. If Bangkok had a ‘Japan Town’ it would be the area around the Phrom Phong sky train station. Yunomori mixes Japanese design and facilities with traditional Thai treatments to appeal to Japanese expats in Bangkok and locals looking for something different